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Canned tuna smells funny. Let’s just get that out of the way up front. I always feel a little guilty when I eat a tuna sandwich in front of other people because then I have to subject them to the smell, and that seems unfair.

So like many foods in my life, I started off with anti-tuna feelings, and now I see I was wrong. Very very wrong. This version of the Tuna Sandwich is made with olive oil, white wine vinegar and garlic instead of mayo, which makes me feel healthy and smart when I eat it. And I love feeling healthy and smart.

Honestly, you should buy Nigel Slater’s Real Fast Food for his commentary as much as the recipes. Here’s his description of this sandwich: “even in the depths of winter it can remind me of summer.” I hear you, Nigel. And he says the ingredients are based “on the classic Pan Bagna.” I’m sure we all know what that means.

Adjustments: I didn’t have the red bell pepper, anchovy fillets or black olives that the recipe calls for, and this sandwich was still good.

Assessments: I’ve eaten three of these sandwiches in a week’s time. It’s madness! For some reason, it’s become the only food that makes sense to eat after running. And I think I ate a bug today while running. The tuna sandwich tasted better.