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A Taste of Little Italy in Old Town Pasadena

Il Fornaio

By Christine Landry

Appeared in Boulevard magazine, March/April issue

If you approach Il Fornaio from Union Street during the evening, you may find yourself trying various locked double doors before you find the right entry. The restaurant is tucked away in a charming brick building in Old Town Pasadena, and with its winding side entrance, it’s easy enough to pretend you’re wandering through the tiny streets of Italy. Of course, upon entering the restaurant, you won’t find an intimate bistro, but a large bustling business filled with people who like their Italian classics kicked up a notch.

My companion and I’s first task, and a difficult one, was to choose between appetizers. There was fresh burricotta cheese with grilled eggplant and roasted tomatoes, crab cakes in a lobster sauce and a tempting two-person antipasto sampler. But since we were quite aware that our stomachs could handle only so much food, we sensibly decided on the crostini di polenta. It was a wise decision. The wedges of polenta were crisp on the outside and soft in the middle with cheese on top, like mini pizzas with substantial crusts. They came with six different toppings; two favorites included one with sautéed zucchini and another with grilled peppers.

Next came a warm spinach salad, insalata di spinaci, with hearty pieces of applewood-smoked bacon. The salad is tossed in a warm vinaigrette to slightly wilt the spinach, but no over-wilting here, and the dressing is more oily then tangy, which is traditional for this dish. We wouldn’t have minded more of the ricotta cheese but still enjoyed this light prelude to the meal.

Determined to eat in true Italian fashion, we ordered both a pasta primi and a main course secundi dish. To begin, we split the tasty ravioli di verdura in salsa di salvia, which consisted of light pasta packets stuffed with Swiss chard, ricotta and more and complemented by a cream sauce flavored with sage. Then came the main course. The tuna con insalatina e caviale was beautifully dressed in a bright yellow saffron-lemon sauce with tiny red tomatoes, light and dark greens and a large piece of tuna, appropriately pink in the center. We especially liked the combination of textures: bobbles of caviar, crunchy Swiss chard and tender tuna. Another solid entrée was the braciola di maiale, a center cut pork chop with a hearty filling that included mozzarella and asparagus topped with an addictive tangy sauce.

Desserts were a flavorful, light end to the meal. The torta brulaggio dello zio ramon was a cheesecake with a nice kick and a crunchy crème brûlée topping—it left us wondering, why hadn’t anyone combined these popular desserts before? However, my favorite was the zabaione all gritti, a custard whipped and airy and paired here with a peach sorbet, a lovely combination of creamy custard and icy sorbet. It provided a sweet end to the meal without making me feel weighed down.

A quick look around the premises revealed a popular outdoor patio, multiple private dining facilities, the new bakery open for a quick lunch and a glitzy bar complete with a wide selection of grappa, a fiery alcohol not for the faint of heart but perfect for a person wanting the full Italian experience, even if you are in Old Town Pasadena.

Il Fornaio, 24 West Union St., Pasadena, 626-683-9797